By late May, I had arrived back in the UK. I had 5-6 weeks to prep the bike for my 2010 travels, which would begin by joining up with a couple of young, enthusiastic riders from other parts of the world to tackle the legendary Road of Bones from Magadan. First I began with general maintenance issues. The bike had done 65,000km (40,000 miles). The fuel pump and fuel filter were changed. The clutch was changed. Normal consumables (oil, filter, plugs, brake pads, wheel bearings and seals) were changed. Then it was onto the modifications and improvements.

(1) Steel Subframe:  Touratech make a replacement for the stock alloy subframe.  My original had an unhealthy amount of flex, and on stripping it down, I found there were a couple of cracks which contributed heavily to that flex.  It may have been possible to weld it back up, and bend it back into shape (the subframe was quite bent, such that the tail light was a good few inches from the centreline on the bike and the rear tyre.)  So I decided to bite the bullet and change the subframe for the steel one.  Its about 2 kgs heavier, but will be easier to attach things too and easier to weld in the field.

(2) Barkbusters:  A refresh of the bike was also a chance to up-spec some of my protective bits.  Some alloy Bark Busters from Adventure Spec went on, and some 50mm (2 inch) Rox risers joined them in the bike’s steering department.

(3) Scheffelmeier Case saver:  2 chains broke on the bike during the 2009 ride and so the case saver (front chain guard) was very much worse for wear after being called into action twice last year.   An excellent item is now produced by Scheffelmeier Metall in Germany to protect the engine housing from stray chains.

(4) Fork Transplant:  The stock forks, while reasonable, are far from ideal.  One fork handles the compression and one the rebound damping, and a test of both forks shows how completely different each fork feels.  Further, the damping is done inside sealed cartridges, and is therefore impossible to play with the damping mechanisms.  A number of different fork transplant options were considered, including Marzocchi 45mm shiver forks from a Husqvarna or Aprilia, Marzocchi top-shelf factory series 45mm forks, or the “generic” option, WP 48 mm forks available on a variety of KTM models. Each choice had its advantages and disadvantages:  The Shiver fork transplant would be the simplest, as it meant the forks would fit straight into the X-Challenge as it was … straight into the existing triple clamps – but I had trouble locating any in the time space available. The Marzocchi Factory Series were the best forks among the candidates, with the lowest friction, best damping and the most adjustment.  I located a second hand set for under £200 (normally about £1000 a set new) but they require different top and bottom clamp sizes.  I would probably have to get all new triple clamps machined up for them.

Finally, thanks to Lukas, a front fork transplant guru in Vienna, I was able to get a hold of all the bits required to put in a set of KTM WP forks.  WP forks have a bit of a reputation for being sticky, with questionable quality bushes and less than ideal standard damping stacks, but they are the default choice among people transplanting forks, mainly because there is a wide selection of bits available for them.  So from Lukas in Vienna came the forks, axle, triple clamps, stem, steering damper mount and brake mount from an assortment of KTMs, that would suit my needs. The main components, the forks themselves were from a late model 640 Adventure.  That meant the fork length and suspension travel of the new forks were basically identical to the old forks.  I specifically asked for large front axle clamps on the WP forks and Lukas obliged with the largest possible 30mm axle.  My old axle was 20mm – larger than the 17mm on some other bikes like the F650 single, but the larger the axle, the stiffer the axle and the larger the bearing surface – meaning less stress on the wheel bearings. The suspension all came together for me (as usual ) at the Hyperpro service centre in Alphen, in Holland.  Bas first serviced my existing Hyperpro rear damper with new seals and oil and then went to work on the front forks.  A quick test before we began illustrated the issues we needed to overcome.  The WP forks had significantly more friction than the Marzocchi forks that come stock on the X-Challenge, but on the other hand, the WP forks had much better damping, both due to compression and rebound being in each fork and having a much greater range of adjustment.

Bas took a look at the stock valve stacks in the WP forks and a look at Zerodogs suggested 640 Adventure stacks and decided he didn’t like the look of either, so customised the valve stacks himself.    Along with the new Hyperpro progressive springs in the forks, the result should be soft non-sticky damping at the beginning to soak up small bumps and quick hits while remaining in control under heavy compression and with no bottoming out. Triple clamps and axle clamps together had roughly the same offset, so all I needed to do was work out a way to get a steering stem to fit.  The steering stem for the KTM and the BMW triple clamps were both 52mm, but the KTM steering stem was 29mm while the BMW stem was 28mm.  The BMW size allowed for a common bearing size – 28x52x16mm – while the KTM size was a wacky one, seemingly unique to KTM.  We decided to machine down the KTM stem, to take the standard 28x52x16mm bearings … handy as I have a few spare sets of that size steering bearings anyway.  Erik at nearby Hot Rod welding pressed out the stem and machined it down. The new forks and KTM triple clamps allowed for a new wheel to be used.  My front rim was about as beaten up as it could get, so it was clear I needed a replacement.  The obvious choice was a Excel A60 unit – the toughest rim out there , which I paired up a Haan Wheels KTM 990 Adventure fitment hub. The final piece in the front end puzzle was to fit a 990 front fender.  I wanted to mount a low fender to increase airflow to the radiator, and to increase stability at speed

(5) New Paint:  While the suspension was being done, I stripped off the old stickers and sanded down the plastic panels and front fairing.  A day and a half, about 50 EUR, a small tin of filler, 8 sheets of sand paper, and a total of 6 can of spray paint (1 primer, 3 gloss white and 2 clear) later and the bike was ready to be white again … this time a nice new shiny white, highlighted with black.

(6) New rack, new front sub-frame:  Ever since the village repair in Khani, on the BAM Road, my front fairing had not been straight.  It was a temporary fix in a out of the way location.  The whole front of the bike including the headlights were pointing off somewhere to the right.  Erik the welder / fabricator from Hot-Rod Welding stepped up to the plate again and built a new front subframe for the fairing.  When that was done it was time to build a new luggage rack.  We had learnt a lot of lessons from the last time I asked Erik to build me a rack, the most important of which was that I should be shy and underestimate how rough I was going the treat the bike.  This time round Erik knew the rack needed to be tough as hell, so instead of the hardware store grade 15mm tube with 1mm side walls, we went for a hydraulic tubing, 18 mm seamless tube, hi quality steel, 2mm side walls.

(7) New Tank:  Last year I had oversized my tank and it had resulted in stresses on the subframe resulting in cracks.  While I had a stronger steel subframe this year, I decided to be a bit more conservative re tank size, and Erik from HotRod Welding whipped me up a 9.5 litre version of the very durable X-Tank.

(8) New bash plate:  I had earlier stayed with Stephan Scheffelmeier while passing thru Germany.  Stephan is a German metal worker who has an X-Challenge and has been developing his own aftermarket parts for the bike, based on his own observations of the bike’s factory shortcomings.

One of the products he makes is a range of bashplates for the XC, and he has a jig set up in his workshop for making them.  He asked me if there were any other products I felt might me useful on the XC and my first thought was a rally style bashplate.  When BMW raced the XC in rallys, Touratech made a rally bash plate for them.  But they stopped making them 2 years ago, and there is now nothing on the market.   I wanted a bashplate that would allow me to move the battery down to the bashplate, some tools down the the bashplate and a small removeable reservoir for 3 litres of water or fuel.  Stephan said it would be possible, but time ran out before this mini project was completed.  I had to settle for the new bashplate with battery compartment only, and would look to adapt it to take fuel, water and tools later in the year.

(9) NewElectrics:  Steve Hallam, my electrical guru, wired up a second tail-light / brake light, a couple of new fuse boxes, rewired the battery now that it was down near my toes, and sorted out a new dashboard.

(10) New Tank Bag:  I felt the previous tank bag was a big big in the sense of it limiting how far forward you can get in a standing position.  I had to switch to a smaller, narrower one – and the guys at Adventure-Spec came up with the goods in the form of a Giant Loop tank bag.

I arrived in Linz a day after my girlfriends birthday. It was my intention to be there on her birthday but after 22 hours and 1000+ km’s of riding it was just not possible. Nevertheless she was pleased to see me. I wrongly assumed that now that I was roughly in the centre of the universe as far BMW Motorrad is concerned all would be well and I’d have an easy journey home. Ironically this is when my problems started. The first problem was the chain. It was “slapping” and jumping about a little more than I felt comfortable with. It’s done 16000 miles now but I still expected it to be doing fine especially considering I have a Scottoiler and cleaned it daily.

The chain had loosened quite considerably and it was then I realised that I had lost some tools when my tent went overboard in Wales 3 weeks before. Not a problem I thought. I’m in a big city and know my way around. I visited Hein Gericke the next day for some supplies and as I was leaving I noticed the rear tyre was going flat. Great! My plans of an early departure were dashed. It turns out BMW Motorrad Linz is about 100m up the road from Hein Gericke and the tyre was completely flat by the time I was parallel with the showroom. My dirty battle scarred F800 GS mirrored the shiny new one on the other side of the showroom glass.

If someone had told me of this I would not have believed them. You could not have staged it for a bike to get a puncture outside a BMW dealership. As it turned out the valve had separated from the inner tube. A casualty of some of our dirt track riding I suspect. It would appear that without the necessary clamps the inner tube was slipping within the tyre. BMW also offered to sort out some warranty work and do some software updates so I was resigned to the fact that I wouldn’t be departing on this day.

During my few days in Linz I made a point of visiting Thomas Wonderka. He is a Flickr contact and also interested in Bikes. We met for a coffee and when we left the F800 Celebrity effect was in full swing. A bus load of Thai Tourists had disembarked from a nearby bus and loved it so much they each wanted a photo in turn with the bike. I had to send my girlfriend off at the airport so I had to speed events up a little by suggesting a group photo.

The following day was sunny and I was packed and ready to make my way to Bochum in Northern Germany. I thanked the Elischak family for their generosity and hospitality and after a slight delay from the temporary loss of my mobile phone I was once again eating up the kilometres. Bavaria is a truly beautiful and varied part of Germany. I could have stopped a 100 times to explore and take photos but I really had to make the time up. By early

evening I was in the forested hills of the Rhineland and with the sun setting in the west the land took on a mystical appearance. By 9pm I arrived in Bochum and was greeted by Stephanie Kotalla. She was a neighbour of mine who used to live at my apartment complex in England and only last year moved back to Germany. Once again the hospitality was exemplary. The BBQ was already running and fine Turkish bread and Campari with orange was waiting for me. We have a lot to learn in England. On this whole trip a recurring theme has been the warm welcomes and great food we have received along the way. I was initially concerned about the security of the bike as it was going to be on the street of a Northern European city. In my view a lot riskier than parking it up in the Balkans.

Once again my concerns were allayed because a Turkish Gentleman was guarding the parking area and was very interested in where I had come from and where I was going to. I gave him a Sibirsky sticker and some Euros for his time and he was happy to pose for a photo.

The next morning I had a bit more time to play with and stopped to take some photos of the area. By lunchtime I had reached Ostende in Belgium and took a short detour to sample some traditional Belgian food. Moules-Frites :). On exiting Ostende I spotted another BMW dealership and they had the new F800 R but I had no time now and had to press on to Calais. I made good time and breezed through customs and the channel tunnel, Even managing to do some filming which was of a better standard than my first attempt when leaving the UK.

I had two appointments. The first was with Walter’s girlfriend… (now, now. Nothing like that!) I had to drop off some of Walter’s excess baggage and let her know all was well. The second meeting was with Tony Pettie and his partner Marina. At very short notice (of which I am deeply apologetic) they provided a wonderful dinner, drinks down the local pub and a very comfortable bed for the night. They offered me breakfast too but I struggle with the concept of breakfast so settled for a very nice coffee instead. Tony is integral to the Sibirsky Extreme Project as he is the next rider to join Walter after he emerges from Kazakhstan and into Russia for the push North East towards Lake Baikal and Siberia.

After a few photos I was once again on my way but instead of zipping up the motorway I deliberately continued the Sibirsky ethos of staying off the beaten track and was rewarded for doing so. Quite by chance I happened upon the oldest windmill in the British Isles and later on in the day while riding up the old Roman Road of Watling Street came upon 100’s of Harley bikers. They were attending the funeral of a close friend and fellow rider and were sending her off with an escort. It was quite a sight and a fitting tribute. 2 hours later I was home and felt a changed person. Positive, enlightened, eager to explore some more and of course sad that I could not continue East. Still. better to be left wanting more.

It was a privilege and a pleasure to ride with Walter Colebatch and Marcin Safranow and to have met all the well wishers and supporters both here and along the route.